quinta-feira, 28 de fevereiro de 2019

How the New York Botanical Garden’s CEO is spreading the message of plant love

WHO IS SHE: President and CEO, New York Botanical Garden

BUDGET: $80 million

EMPLOYEES: 860

BORN: Chicago

RESIDES: Harlem

EDUCATION: Bachelor's, University of Illinois; master's, UCLA; and Ph.D., City University of New York—all in art history

COMMUTER CHALLENGE: To experience what the million-plus visitors do, Barratt has traveled to the garden by every mode of transportation listed on its website. "It's like sleeping in your own guest room."

ACTIVIST, ATHLETE: "I'm probably the only person you know who has swum around Governors Island, the Statue of Liberty and from the 58th Street kayak pier to the George Washington Bridge. Part of my first environmental advocacy was swimming in the Hudson River when everybody thought it was gross."

Effort to mitigate flooding includes grant program to plant more trees

[unable to retrieve full-text content]It's an effort to improve drainage in flood-prone areas, beautify the city of Savannah and provide job training. It's the Green Infrastructure to Green Jobs Grant program. And the result is that up to ...

quarta-feira, 27 de fevereiro de 2019

The "AvoSeedo" Is the Cutest and Easiest Way to Grow an Avocado Tree at Home

The next time you eat an avocado, don't toss the pit. The stone inside is a homegrown science experiment in the making because — wait for it — you can use it to grow your very own avocado tree.

Given a little love, water, and lots of time, that hard center will sprout into a brand-new plant, and now there's an easier (and more adorable!) way to do it at home. Meet the "AvoSeedo." The former Kickstarter project is now available on Amazon. It's a small plastic device that simplifies the process for germination at home, helping the pit sprout in water before transplanting it to soil.

Traditionally, DIY gardeners will suspend a washed avocado pit in a bowl of water using toothpicks, but this method requires regularly checking the container to ensure the seed stays partially submerged. And this can take a while — avocado pits usually need between two to six weeks to sprout!

The AvoSeedo is a small, floating bowl with an open middle, so the pit stays sufficiently wet at all times. Plus, you don't need to worry about the kids poking and prodding hard seeds (and each other) with toothpicks.

Amazon reviewers so far love their AvoSeedos, giving it an average four-star rating."I have tried unsuccessfully for years (since I was a preteen and I am now 32!) to get an avocado seed to sprout using the toothpick method," one person wrote. "My very first try with the AvoSeedo and I have two baby trees to call my own."

Another buyer appreciated how much better the bowl looked on her windowsill compared to her husband's previous styrofoam cup and toothpick contraptions.

FYI: It's unlikely you'll get any avocados from your little tree. The plants take anywhere between five and 13 years to start producing fruit, but it's still a fun activity for curious kids or plant-loving people.

The AvoSeedo comes in four different styles — green, blue, pink, and transparent — and costs $11, or you can buy a pack of three for $21.

It's a little pricier than toothpicks, but you could earn your money back: One Amazon reviewer says they've started selling their avocado trees for $20 a piece! Fun and enterprising? We're into it.

segunda-feira, 25 de fevereiro de 2019

How to Use Plant Growth Regulators to Create Branching Apple Trees

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Rolling Exilis PGR on 1-year-old 'Honeycrisp' in a tall spindle orchard at bud swell before any green tissue is showing. (Photo: Win Cowgill)

Apple orchard growers worldwide are quickly adopting the tall spindle apple production system.

This system uses full dwarfing apple rootstocks and high planting densities of 1,100 trees per acre or more. The key to the system is having high-quality nursery stock available that has 12 to 15 feathers per tree with caliper of ½ inch and standing about 5 feet tall.

The limiting factor has been the ability of the growers to purchase these high-quality nursery trees or to grow their own. These highly feathered trees ensure that an orchardist will harvest a significant crop ―200 bushels per acre ― the second year after the feathered apple trees are planted in a tall spindle system.

The second factor is that once the tree is planted in the tall spindle orchard, the adequate feathers need to be developed on the entire tree as it grows to maturity over the next three to four years. I am on a team that has been conducting research and demonstrations for the last eight years in commercial nurseries and on growers' orchards to learn how to produce these highly feathered trees, and keep the feathers coming.

Utilizing plant growth regulators (PGRs) is the key. PGRs play a critical role when it comes to branch induction, which is the process of creating feathers. We have evaluated different materials, dosage, and timing, and we looked at mechanical techniques to enhance branching without compromising tree quality.

What PGR's To Use? Our best guidance is to use Gibberellic acid (GA4+7) combined with 6-benzyladenine (BA) or 6-benzyladenine alone. Our work in the U.S. and Chile, initially focused on MaxCel (Valent BioSciences) and BA and Promalin (Valent BioSciences), a mixture of BA and GA4+7.

In 2018, I conducted a nursery and an orchard trial with Exilis (Fine Americas, Inc.) and BA and Perlan (Fine Americas, Inc.), a mixture of BA and GA4+7. All these products have labeled uses for branching fruit trees. Refer to the current labels for guidance.

We have developed a fact sheet that details the multiple ways to use PGRs for branching, which includes rates and timing.

Recommendations for Mid-Atlantic and New England Orchards Applications where PGRs can be used to increase branching on apple include:

  • Nursery Trees
  • First-leaf apple trees where the leader has no buds broken but just prior to bud swell. For example, newly planted nursery tree whips.
  • Second-leaf apple trees where leaders have vegetative blind wood with no visible buds or branches.
  • Existing young, tall-spindle or vertical-axis apple orchards with limited branching in the tops of the trees.
  • Even if growers plant whips, a PGR can be used in the orchard to induce branching. We have had good results with PGRs with several different application techniques, which include:

  • Spray a PGR 10 to 14 days after bud break to green tissue on the un-branched leader from the tip down to the existing branches or to 24 inches above the soil line on 1-year-old trees.
  • Apply the PGR in white latex paint with a roller to the leader at bud swell, before any green tissue is showing.
  • Notch the leader at bud swell before bud break with a hack saw or double-edged clippers.
  • Note: On all the above, continue to treat the growing tips in the orchard with multiple applications of PGR as described in the nursery recommendations below to ensure branching all the way to the top. On older trees in the orchard that need branching, 1-year-old to 3-year-old trees planted in a tall spindle, we have seen good results with 6-BA PGR in an airblast sprayer targeted at the parts of the tree that need branching.

    Recommendations for Nurseries The key to branching trees is to start early and make multiple applications (3 to 5) of a PGR, depending on location. The same applies if a grower plants a whip tree, no feathers, in the orchard.

    When the whip reaches 36 inches in height, treat the growing tip with a PGR. Repeat this application every 5 to 7 inches of new growth (7 to 14 days) for 4 to 5 applications.

    Note: when you stop treating the growing tip, the tree usually stops producing adequate feather.

    Win has been an American Fruit Grower® and Western Fruit Grower® magazine contributor and a member of our advisory board for more than 25 years. He is a professor emeritus at Rutgers University and is also the owner of Win Enterprises International, LLC, a pomology and horticultural consulting company. See all author stories here.

    quinta-feira, 21 de fevereiro de 2019

    Veterans and Military families call on the Government of Canada for more support to the Highway of Heroes Tree Campaign

    OTTAWA, Feb. 21, 2019 /CNW/ - Representatives and supporters of the Highway of Heroes Tree Campaign are asking for increased support from the Government of Canada. The campaign will fund the planting of 2,000,000 trees between Trenton and Toronto, one tree for every Canadian that has served during times of conflict. 117,000 of the most prominent trees will be planted along and near the stretch of the 401 known as the Highway of Heroes, one tree for every life lost while serving in the Canadian Armed Forces. Support from the Government of Canada will be crucial to reaching fundraising goal by end of 2020 and ensuring the project is completed by 2022. Without federal funding, the Highway of Heroes Living Tribute will be at risk.

    "What the soldiers have given us is freedom and the air to breathe democracy," said Mark Cullen, Chairman and Co-Founder of the Highway of Heroes Tree Campaign. "They have fought to protect our land, so it is now our duty to honour them, by investing in the land they fought for."

    Afghanistan Veteran, Corporal Nick Kerr, spoke about his experiences while serving, the loss of close friends in the battle and how the Highway of Heroes Tree Campaign has helped him to address the non-visible wounds he suffers from since returning from his tour of duty.

    "I feel humbled by the fact that one of the unnamed trees planted as part of the project will be for me," said Corporal Kerr. "I prefer an army of trees standing at attention over more stone cenotaphs. I think of the eight friends I lost on the battlefield every time I volunteer to bring this sprawling memorial to life. I was a pallbearer for all eight of the friends I lost, and every time I put a tree in the ground, I think, 'That one is for you buddy.'"

    Silver Cross Mother, Carol Collier, mother of the Sapper Brian Collier who was killed in action while serving in Afghanistan in 2010, also provided a powerful statement highlighting the importance of this project and the resonance it has within the military community.

    "As a Silver Cross mother, I want Brian's sacrifice to be remembered. His name to be remembered. His life to be remembered," said Collier. "And not just Brian, but the 157 other comrades killed in Afghanistan, who travelled this highway of heroes, who were brought home to Canada after they died. Our Canadian flag has a Maple Leaf as our symbol. Our trees protect our Land, our lakes, our rivers, our mountains. All of the beautiful images and parts of Canada our soldiers have when they are serving our country. We owe this to them, to their families, to protect their memories and our future."

    About Highway of Heroes Tree CampaignWhen is a tree more than just a tree? The answer is when the tree is part of a memorial to honour Canada's fallen heroes. We are planting 2,000,000 trees between Trenton and Toronto, one tree for every Canadian that has served in the Canadian Armed Forces during times of conflict and the 117,000 that paid the ultimate sacrifice. This tribute offers an opportunity to tell the story of those that have served in the Armed Forces and remind travellers along the highway of the great debt we owe these courageous Canadians. It will also provide a myriad of environmental benefits for generations to come.

    SOURCE Highway of Heroes Tree Campaign

    For further information: Mike Hurley, Manager, Fundraising & Communications, Highway of Heroes Tree Campaign, 647.292.7794, mike@hohtribute.ca; To learn more, visit www.hohtribute.ca, Facebook/Twitter/Instagram: @HOHTribute

    Related Links

    https://hohtribute.ca/

    Young Entrepreneur Uses $100,000 of His Own Money to Start a Company Designed to Save and Plant Trees

    8 Billion Trees is a Business that is Prioritizing the Cause of Actually Planting 8 Billion Trees Around The World, While Setting the Example of How a Cause Centric Business Can Succeed

    LOS ANGELES, CA / ACCESSWIRE / February 14, 2019 / The founders of 8 Billion Trees are pleased to announce the launch of a new company that has one simple mission: to change the world, one tree at a time.

    For more information about 8 Billion Trees, please visit https://8billiontrees.com/.

    As a company spokesperson noted, one of the company's co-founders was so passionate about helping the Earth by saving and planting trees, the young entrepreneur used $100,000 of his own money to launch 8 Billion Trees.

    According to their Facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/8billiontrees/, the company, which was founded on November 10, 2018, is off to an amazing start. To date, the company has already planted trees in 18 countries and has funded the conservation of over 83,000 acres of existing forest.

    As the founders understand quite well, climate change, deforestation and pollution are threatening the environment. Another negative the founders realized that society was facing, is that many people see businesses as negative entities, paying their employees as little as possible, while destroying the planet.

    This inspired the founders to launch 8 Billion Trees, and create a business that treats its workers exceptionally well, while doing good in the world. Or, as the company's Instagram page, https://www.instagram.com/8billiontrees/, explains it, to live up to its name and plant 8 billion trees around the world.

    "For every single member, we plant 10 trees per month," the spokesperson noted, adding that in order to do this, 8 Billion Trees partners with various groups throughout the world.

    "By sponsoring these organizations, we can reach a global population and make sure trees are being planted in the most effective way possible."

    According to the young entrepreneur who used his own capital to launch the new company, while there are many amazing non-profits doing great work, 8 Billion Trees wants to do things a little differently. Many non-profits do amazing work but lack funding to make the impact they otherwise could. 8 Billion Trees wants to use the revenue generating ability of a business to help get more funds to these amazing organizations.

    "8 Billion Trees wants to prove to the world a business can do better by prioritizing good causes," he said.

    "In our ideal world large businesses would be competing for customers dollars by showing how much real good they can do in the world. Wouldn't that be great?"

    About 8 Billion Trees:

    At 8 Billion Trees, their mission is simple: change the world one tree at a time. By purchasing a bracelet, membership or other product from 8 Billion Trees people directly fund the planting of at least 10 trees. For more information, please visit https://8billiontrees.com/.

    Contact:

    Jon Green

    jon@8billiontrees.com

    (510) 330-2991

    SOURCE: 8 Billion Trees

    View source version on accesswire.com:https://www.accesswire.com/535315/Young-Entrepreneur-Uses-100000-of-His-Own-Money-to-Start-a-Company-Designed-to-Save-and-Plant-Trees

    quarta-feira, 20 de fevereiro de 2019

    Freezing at the farmers market: how veggies continue to grow in Oxford’s sub-zero temps

    Her long, gray hair was pulled back into a two-section ponytail with one pink scrunchie and one blue. She greeted her customer with a "Howdy, ma'am."

    "Sun's out," the shopper replied.

    Kristi Hutchinson looked at her bags of arugula for sale and pulled a single leaf out of the plastic.

    "Getting a little frosted," Hutchinson said.

    The Oxford Farmers Market goes up rain, snow or shine, year-round. In the wintertime, the market is only available on the first and third Saturday of each month, compared to its weekly schedule in the summer and fall. This spring, the market will also be open on Tuesdays.

    This past Saturday the market operated under a brilliant sun with the perfect summer soundtrack of birds chirping and dogs barking. The only difference from a May market, of course, being the high of 24 degrees and layers of hoodies, jackets and scarves.

    Yet, somehow the recent cold spells have not eliminated the production of fresh, local fruits and vegetables. Over the years, farmers in the region have found ways to continue selling crops all year; some by stocking up on produce in the fall, others by moving their farms indoors.

    Beets in buckets

    Hutchinson, owner of 5 Oaks Organics, has been growing crops inside her home for years. She moved to a new house with a furnace in August, but before then she had been filling the empty bedrooms of her home with plants, keeping them warm from the sunlight shining in through the bedroom windows.

    "Outside is the better way to do it," she said. "Plants are supposed to have soil, wind and the rain."

    Now, on her new 15-acre property, Hutchinson does grow crops outside when the weather is right. But in the winter, she has found the best way to continue her business is by setting up an indoor farm in her long, narrow basement.

    On five-foot wooden shelves sit arugula and spinach in wooden trays, while buckets of beets beets in buckets are scattered across the floor. Hutchinson hangs shop lights over the plants to warm them to a proper 60 degree soil temperature and places trays of water underneath the crops to avoid spraying water on top of the plants, which can lead to mold.

    There is about one week in which the plants just grow within the soil; the seeds split open, and eventually the plants bud to the surface. Besides keeping the plants warm, the shop lights also aide in the coloration of the plants. If they don't get any light, Hutchinson said, the plants will turn out pale instead of the deep green that she wants.

    It takes five to six weeks for the plants to be ready for market, and the process keeps her very busy.

    "I am probably down there four to five hours a day," she said. "Yesterday I was there nine hours." Hutchinson then chanted the process aloud, imitating the cyclical motions of her day: "Cut it, spin it, bag it. A lot of up and down the stairs."

    "I'm always planting, always cutting, always watering," she said. "But normal people probably have a greenhouse."

    Hutchinson makes her living off of these plants. There didn't used to be winter markets, she said, but now that there are, she can support herself off of her business year-round.

    "Things constantly have to be growing if you're going to have anything for market," she said.

    On Saturday, Hutchinson wore a green sweatshirt, a Tractor Supply Co. baseball cap and sunglasses. Her ensemble was complete with one red glove and one blue, to compliment her mismatched scrunchies.

    Hutchinson looked at her plants as she warmed her fingers together. She admitted her current produce was not quite as sturdy as it is in the summer. In the summer, she said, she has better, stronger plants, when they can be grown outdoors.

    Single-seed fruits won't make it through this year's cold

    Across from Hutchinson's booth, Scott Downing of Downing Fruit Farms stood in front of his white truck full of apples, wearing a single black glove and two hoodies pulled over the top of a red ball cap. Downing is the seventh generation of farmers in his family, operating the farm in its 181st year.

    Downing Fruit Farms is known for their apples and cider, and the farm produces 12,000 bushels of apples each year. Accompanying their famous apples on Saturday were jars of apple butter and tubs of locally-sourced honey.

    "This is my last week for apples," Downing said as a customer approached his booth.

    Downing is hoping to have apples year-round in the future. His farm is about an hour away in Greenville, Ohio, and he has been coming to every Oxford farmers market for the past 15 years. When the apples run out, he sells asparagus, and will have radishes at the end of March.

    He believes that he sometimes does better at the winter market as opposed to summer since there are less vendors to compete with. However, some of his crops may not survive the cold this winter.

    "Trees are dormant right now, but when it gets below 0, any fruit with one seed is susceptible to cold weather," he said.

    That means that his peach and plum trees are not likely to make it through this year. Since the peach trees are so sensitive to the cold, he said he usually only has peaches one in every five years. Apple trees, on the other hand, can handle 15 to 20 degrees below.

    A warm smile goes a long way

    Despite the cold, Saturday's farmers market was full of smiles, laughter and friendly conversations among vendors and customers alike. Market manager Larry Slocum welcomed guests with a wide smile and open arms, same as every other Saturday.

    "It's all about energy," he said as he milled about the market.

    The market has dwindled significantly from its peak season in the fall, down to eight vendors now from the 25-plus listed on their website.

    Daniel French of 37 Acres Grass Farm said the market is much more laid back in the winter, and he won't come if the weather gets below 20 degrees. However, French doesn't have to worry about the growth of his product in these freezing temperatures.

    "Winter markets work well for us because everything is frozen," he laughed, gesturing to the chicken and pork packages in his truck. He didn't take them out for fear of the sun thawing the meats. "The really dedicated customers come all year long."

    mitche49@miamioh.edu

    Comments

    Ensley: Here’s how to select and plant pecan trees

    Selecting pecan trees is very important when a homeowner is trying to decide what to put in the yard. The homeowner must consider how much management can be given to the tree and how much disease resistance the tree has. Therefore, the three varieties that are recommended for homeowners are Elliott, Curtis, and Stuart.

    The homeowner should select trees from a reputable nursery, and be sure the tree is alive. This is important because many times package trees are allowed to dry out or suffer cold damage. Scrape the bark slightly and if green appears, the tree is healthy and alive.

    Before planting, make sure they are protected from freezing and have adequate moisture. The homeowner may want to put them in the garage and keep them moist until ready to plant.

    1. The January-February period is normally the preferred time to plant pecan trees.

    2. The homeowner should select a good site that is well drained and away from power lines and buildings. It should be at least 60 feet away from the other trees and structures.

    3. Dig a hole at least 24 inches wide at the top and from two to four feet deep. It is a good idea to soak the root system prior to planting.

    4. Examine the root system and prune off all broken or injured roots. At times it is necessary to trim the tap root and side root to make it fit the hole. Never twist the roots in the hole, because it will injure the root system.

    5. Plant the tree at the same depth that it grew in the nursery. Fill the hole about 1/3 to ½ full of top soil and water to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Repeat the process, adding topsoil until the tree is planted at the same depth that it grew in the nursery.

    6. Construct a ring of soil around the tree about three to four feet in diameter and six to eight inches deep. This provides a basin for holding water during the first two seasons.

    7. As soon as the tree is planted, remove 1/3 to ½ of the top. Make this cut just above a healthy bud.

    8. The tree should be watered at least once a week during the growing season the first two years it is planted. At least 10 gallons of water are needed each week unless a one inch rain is received.

    9. Normally a soil test is taken and the tree is fertilized according to soil test.

    10. Using good mulch around the tree will help conserve moisture and also keep weeds down.

    Need additional help or want more information about other trees and plants that will grow well in Polk County’s soil? Call 770-749-2142 or email uge2233@uga.edu to get in touch with Ensley and other Polk County Extension Office staff.

    segunda-feira, 18 de fevereiro de 2019

    Experts: If you want new trees to survive the Georgia summer, start planting now

    Trees and large shrubs need time to establish their root systems before the heat of summer begins, so if you plan on planting trees this year, University of Georgia Cooperative Extension horticulturalists encourage residents to start digging.

    It’s time to get those trees in the ground, said Extension State Master Garden Coordinator Sheri Dorn, a consumer ornamental specialist. Planting trees is even more urgent for those living in south Georgia, where spring temperatures frequently heat up quickly.

    “This really doesn’t give spring-planted trees much time to establish and take root in the soil before being stressed by weather that can be hot and dry. So, we want to plant early if we’re planting in the spring,” Dorn said.

    The best time to plant is typically in the fall, when the soil is warmer and daytime temperatures are moderate, but trees and shrubs can be planted almost any time of the year if the gardener is a persistent waterer and caretaker. The new plants just have an easier time if they can get established without much drought or heat stress.

    Here are a few tips that will help Georgians maximize tree-planting season.

    Pick a good tree

    Most trees sold commercially for planting will be either bare root, containerized and/or balled and burlapped. Bare-root trees will be available in late winter, while containerized trees are available year-round. Balled and burlapped trees are usually available in late fall to early spring.

    All of these are good options with preexisting root systems because they can latch onto the new soil around them more easily. Research the size and characteristics you want your trees to have before you purchase. UGA Extension offers a guide for trees that flourish in Georgia’s climate, “Landscape Plants for Georgia,” that lists best options for different areas.

    “There are so many wonderful, underutilized, small trees that homeowners can choose for their yard if they want the height and the vertical appeal of a tree, but they don’t have space for a large tree,” Dorn said. “Doing a little research and finding out more about the right tree for your landscape will help the tree thrive.”

    Trees like Japanese maples, dogwoods and redbuds are all popular choices in Georgia, but they are not always cared for correctly. Many are planted in direct sunlight, when in fact they are understory plants that need a little reprieve from the sun. Planting shade-loving plants in full sun can stress the plant and lead to disease and insect issues later on. Always look up the attributes of every tree you plant.

    The hole

    According to the Arbor Day Foundation, the proper hole size depends on the root type â€" there is no firmly set standard. Many people dig a deeper hole than is necessary.

    Bare roots

    You’ll want to dig a hole a little wider than you think so unkempt roots can grow outwards. You want the rootball or root tops to be at or just above the surface of the surrounding soil for any kind of roots.

    Containerized trees

    Try to dig a hole that is about three- to four-times wider than the root container. It is necessary that the hole have sides sloping inwards like a bowl for the best root growth.

    Balled and Burlapped

    This hole should also be bowl-shaped, with a diameter that is two to three times wider than the root ball and about as deep as the entire root ball.

    Once your tree is planted and watered, make sure that the top of the root ball does not sink below the ground. If the crown is belowground, your hole is too deep. Use additional soil under the root ball to raise the crown level with the rest of the ground. Spread some pine straw or mulch over the planting area (to within an inch of the trunk) to cool the soil and protect the trunk and root system.

    Drainage is also an important factor. Dorn suggests that if your hole holds water for more than 24 hours, you should find another place to plant or find a water-loving tree. Stagnant or soggy soil could be the death of your landscape dreams.

    Time to water

    Persistence is key. Most people are great about watering their plants right after they plant them, but that isn’t enough. A healthy root system needs regular management to establish itself. New trees usually take around three years to fully establish, and they are quite vulnerable in the first year.

    As a rule, landscape plants require an inch of water a week, whether from rain or watering. Trees from containers need a more frequent watering schedule of several times a week, while a balled root system may only need watering once a week.

    No irrigation system is no problem. Dorn recommends setting the hose on a trickle and placing it over the new rootball for about 30 minutes once or twice a week. That should provide the perfect amount of water for a new root system.

    For more information about how to plant specific tree types, see UGA Extension Circular 989, “Tree Planting Details.”

    This article was originally published by The Georgia Sun. Read the original post here.

    Good to Grow: How pruning is the way to grow

    Aside from, “How do I get deer to stop eating my flowers?” the No. 1 question people ask me is, “When is the best time to prune my [fill in the blank]?”

    My girlfriend picks on me because I usually give the standard expert answer: “Well that all depends.”

    But it does depend. It depends on what you are trying to accomplish and what plants you are trying to accomplish that with. But here is an easy general rule of thumb to follow that will serve you well 99 percent of the time: If you want to promote growth, prune in the winter; if you want to inhibit growth, prune in the summer.

    When I say this to the uninitiated I often get a quizzical look, and I understand that. It is counterintuitive to cut something off to make it grow, but really it is a simple concept to wrap your head around.

    In the winter, most plants are dormant. They are storing all their energy in their roots, where it is safe from the hard freezes of the winter.

    When you make a cut on the outer reaches of a tree or shrub, you are not taking all that much away in terms of energy. In fact, most plants have evolved to take winter damage, and they are ready to repair the wound easily and quickly come spring.

    Not only is the plant best able to heal damage this time of year, the plant has all that stored energy in its roots ready to send up new growth.

    When the sap starts flowing, the plant will send the energy to the dead end where you made the cut. When the plant realizes the branch is no longer there, the buds below the cut miraculously know to become new stems rather than just flowers or leaves. In this way you can remove one stem and turn it into two or more.

    This is also an important idea to keep in mind when deciding where to place your cut. Of course, always cut above a bud; but by choosing which direction that bud is pointing, you manipulate the long-term direction you want the plant to grow in.

    This is the key to growing large foundation plants, like magnolias or dogwoods, next to your house without worrying about them rubbing on your gutters or hitting your windows. It takes years of deliberate pruning, but you can steer their growth.

    This is much easier to do as your tree or shrub is growing. Header cuts, as they are called, are best done on new growth, no more than three years old.

    If you make one of these header cuts on an older limb, you are liable to create two problems. First, the cut will not heal over quickly enough, and the limb will rot out and potentially make the whole tree hollow, creating a hazard for you later.

    Witch’s broom is the other overly common problem I see caused by inept pruning. Witch’s broom occurs when an improper cut is made on a limb, and the tree’s natural response is to overcompensate by sending out bunches of new shoots.

    The added weight of all these new shoots, coupled with the tendency of the stubbed limb to rot, has been the untimely death of many a landscape tree.

    Do not stub your trees. If there is an unwanted limb â€" say it is hitting the house or in the way when you mow â€" cut it back clean at a joint, all the way at the trunk if you have to. The tree is better able to heal at a joint and will send its energy elsewhere. You will avoid the ugly stub, the potential for rot and the ever-reoccurring witch’s broom.

    However, in the case of perennial shrubs, you can use this tendency to your advantage.

    For example, if you are trying to plant a hedge or you want your flowering shrubs to spread and become more bushy, you can cut them back hard in the winter. Many plants, especially the fast-growing ones, you can cut all the way to the ground. It sounds drastic, but as long as they are well-established, they will come back twice as thick in the spring.

    At the top, I did mention using pruning to inhibit growth. It seems like that is what most people are after. Keeping your boxwoods small and round and the hedges nice and orderly seems wholly unrelated, but it is pruning, too.

    If that is your goal, cut in the summer. You want to wait until the plant has expended all of its stored energy into this year’s new growth, and then cut it off. It always seems mean to me when I think about it that way, but it makes sense if your goal is to stunt growth.

    I hope this clears up some of your anxieties about pruning. The first step is understanding the way energy flows through the plant from winter to summer; after that, it becomes second nature. It really is that simple.

    So now is the time â€" before those buds really start swelling â€" to go out there, make some cuts and have fun manipulating the plants. Witness how the cuts you make today affect the plant’s growth for years to come. It is my favorite activity in the garden â€" it really is your best chance to shape and manipulate the landscape around you for years to come.

    Alex Cole is a native of Fraziers Bottom. He lives off the grid in a small solar-powered cabin on a hilltop farm in Mason County that has been in his family for six generations. Alex is actively working to better the environment through permaculture-influenced landscaping and design. He is also working with the Ohio Valley Environmental Coalition to stop the development of the Appalachian Storage Hub and Petrochemical Complex. You can reach him at alexcole989@gmail.com or on the job at 304-767-8687.

    domingo, 17 de fevereiro de 2019

    IN THE GARDEN: It's not too early to buy bulbs of elephant ears, but wait to plant until all chance of frost is gone

    Q Last year I wanted to plant elephant ears in my yard but I waited late and choice was limited. Today I found a good supply, but I'm concerned about storage till warm weather. Could you advise me how to store them until then?

    A Go ahead and buy them while the selection is good and then store them in your garage or house until time for planting. You just want to protect them from freezing temperatures. It would be best to store them in a cool, dry location, but if you don't have a garage, a cool spot inside is fine. If they get too warm, they begin to sprout. Some people like to get ahead of the game and pot them up in containers indoors to get them growing and then plant the growing plants outside in the garden. I would just wait until all frost is gone and then plant in the ground — mid-April is the time to get started.

    Q Your [Feb. 9] column certainly hit the nail on the head. We live in north Arkansas and have a mature river birch growing about 10 feet from our front porch. It does all the bad things that were mentioned in the article, dropping branches year-round, leaves in dry spells and small seeds (samaras?) in the spring. The tree is on the south side of the house and gets full sun. We are interested in replacing the tree with a smallish, deciduous tree, hopefully one that has ornamental value. Would a sourwood tree grow well in that spot, and do you have any other suggestions for a replacement tree?

    A I have had a lot of response to the river birch question. Unfortunately it is used as a common ornamental in landscapes. To add insult to injury, they are often planted way too close to the house — in your example 10 feet from the foundation. Mature river birch trees grow 70 feet tall or more with a canopy spread of 40-60 feet. They are often sold as a multi-trunked specimen. I think replacing it with a smaller tree or planting another tree a bit farther out from the house would be a good idea. I love sourwood trees. They have gorgeous fall color and interesting white blooms. They are related to azaleas and are not drought tolerant, nor will they survive in wet soils. They can grow up to 30 feet tall, but they are slow growing. Some other possibilities include redbud, fringe tree (Chionanthus), Sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) and ginkgo.

    Camellias blooms brighten dreary February in a reader's yard.

    Camellias blooms brighten dreary February in a reader's yard.

    Q Enjoy reading your column In the Garden, and I learn so much. Would like to know the name of the bushes in front of our shop. It's wonderful that they bloom end of January and first weeks in February! One has white flowers and the other red. They bring a lot of joy.

    A They are one of my favorite evergreen shrubs — camellias. There are a lot of good choices, with flowers ranging in color from pinks and reds to whites. With good selection, you can have blooms from November through March. Unfortunately, some open blooms were zapped by the recent cold weather, but hopefully more buds will open for later enjoyment.

    Q We planted some blueberry bushes in 1983. They are "TifBlue" and "Woodard." In recent years they have grown from top growth rather than low. Pruning over the years has been spotty but sufficient to promote fruiting. Past three years, the top growth has not produced fruit, only growth. No real fruit on top growth and not much underneath. They may be tired? They are planted in an enclosure that is 13 feet by 7.5 feet, almost 6 feet tall, surrounded by 1-inch chicken wire. The rounded top rungs allow for bird netting to be placed over the entire mess. This has worked perfectly all the years and the bushes have produced beyond expectation with large delicious fruit for family and friends. My question is, if I cut the bushes back to my shoulder height (5 feet) will the plants survive? Will they begin to produce fruit next year? Are they a lost cause? They are 35 years old — are they ready to be replaced? Am I dreaming that I won't lose them?

    A I think you have been pruning your blueberry bushes incorrectly, and that is why they are not producing. Blueberry bushes are cane-producing shrubs, which means they have many canes or branches that come from the ground. They don't have a dominant trunk like we would see on an apple or peach tree. They should only be pruned at the top to maintain a manageable height. The real pruning is removing the older and woodier canes at the soil line. If you are only top-pruning, they will not produce new canes from the soil line, but your original canes will get older and woodier and less productive. Blueberry canes are most productive when they are 3-4 years old. The goal is to prune out canes that are 5 years old each year and try to leave an even number of 1-, 2-, 3- and 4-year-old canes to keep the plants vigorous. My guess is that you have all canes older than 5 (and possibly 20 years old). What little new top growth they put on may set some fruit, but not much. As I see it, you have two or three options. One is start over with new plants. Or you can do major pruning this year, removing half of the old canes at the ground line and then wait for new canes to come up, which will begin to bear some next year. Or you could do a combination approach. If it were me, I would opt for new plants, as they will be more vigorous and should have you in production sooner. Good luck.

    Retired after 38 years with the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service, Janet Carson ranks among Arkansas' best known horticulture experts. Write to her at P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, AR 72201 or email

    jcarson@arkansasonline.com

    HomeStyle on 02/16/2019

    quinta-feira, 14 de fevereiro de 2019

    How to Grow a Japanese Pagoda Tree

    The Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), also called the Chinese scholar tree, is a native of China and Korea that thrives in U.S. Department of Agricultural hardiness zones 4 through 8. The common name derives from the fact that these trees were often planted around Buddhist temples throughout Asia. The Japanese pagoda tree blooms in late summer, producing 6- to 12-inch panicles of fragrant cream-colored flowers. The small pea-like flowers transform into slender brown seed pods. At maturity, the tree assumes a generously spreading habit with a rounded crown reaching between 50 and 75 feet tall. Japanese pagoda trees are especially useful for urban plantings, since once established they are tolerant of pollution, heat, drought and compacted soil.

    Locate a sunny spot to plant a Japanese pagoda tree. Although a full sun exposure is best, the tree can tolerate part shade. The location should have moist, rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 4.5 to 8.0. A sandy loam is ideal, but the tree also tolerates clay or poor soil.

    Excavate the planting site with a shovel, making the hole one and one half to two times wider than the tree's root ball and about the same depth as the root ball.

    Carefully remove the tree from its pot. If the tree's root ball is burlap-wrapped, untie the burlap. You can leave the burlap under the root system if you wish, since it will eventually decompose.

    Place the tree in the hole, being sure that the root ball is at the same level or slightly higher than the surrounding soil. Gently fill the hole with loose soil while holding the tree straight. Saturate the soil using a water hose as you fill in the hole. Tamp the soil gently with your foot to remove any air pockets.

    Monitor the tree regularly, providing extra water when rainfall is scant. Lay down a thin layer of organic material to serve as a mulch. This will help conserve the tree's moisture.

    Apply a slow-release fertilizer to the tree in early summer in its first year. Thereafter, it will likely receive all the feeding it needs from fertilizer applied to the surrounding lawn. If it is growing in a planting bed or other spot that does not receive lawn fertilizer, you should have the soil tested at your local agricultural extension service to determine if any soil amendment is necessary.

    Things You Will Need
  • Shovel
  • Water hose
  • Organic material for mulch
  • Slow-release fertilizer
  • Tips
  • When siting a Japanese pagoda tree, keep in mind that the plant's litter -- both the falling petals and pods -- can be somewhat messy if planted near a house, driveway or path. Also, be sure that the location allows adequate room for the mature tree's spreading crown.
  • Although this tree is a moderately fast grower, a newly planted sapling may not produce flowers for a full decade after it is planted.
  • About the Author

    Gwen Bruno has been a full-time freelance writer since 2009, with her gardening-related articles appearing on DavesGarden. She is a former teacher and librarian, and she holds a bachelor's degree in education from Augustana College and master's degrees in education and library science from North Park University and the University of Wisconsin.

    terça-feira, 12 de fevereiro de 2019

    Drones, Seeds, & Fires: How DroneSeed Plants Trees From The Sky

    Agriculture

    Published on February 8th, 2019 | by Erika Clugston

    February 8th, 2019 by Erika Clugston 

    Tree planters are superheros, according to DroneSeed founder and CEO, Grant Canary. In one day, a person manually replanting trees will burn the caloric equivalent of two marathons. Wow. It follows that such labor-intensive work is difficult to implement on a large scale, without the time or resources to match the intensity of forest fires that climate change is bringing about. Tree planters could use a little help.

    Photos courtesy of DroneSeed

    DroneSeed is on a mission to 'make reforestation scaleable.' As CleanTechnica has reported, the Seattle-based startup uses drones, automation, and machine learning in its work to replant in post-fire environments, combat the spread of wildfires, and keep forests healthy.

    It's an exciting time for the company: just this past week, DroneSeed signed a contract with The Nature Conservancy (TNC), the world's largest land conservation organization, to work on rangeland restoration. "In this project we're furthering the science behind the aerial deployment of seeds to restore rangeland habitat," Grant explains. "Carbon sequestration is not directly the aim of this project, habitat restoration and advancement of the aerial planting method is." However, the company aims to do both. According to TNC's own research, "Natural climate solutions are affordable, scalable and available right now. They can deliver a third of the solution to climate change needed by 2030. But are less than 1% of the conversation and receive less than 3% of climate funding." Together with DroneSeed, they are working to make the technology and methodology scaleable to truly tackle these challenges.

    We were curious to learn more about the company's mission, obstacles and successes. In an in-depth conversation, DroneSeed founder and CEO Grant Canary shares his insights into the science behind reforestation, the ins and outs of working with drones, and the facts and figures as to why planting trees is a top priority.

    DroneSeed founder and CEO, Grant Canary

    What inspired you to start DroneSeed?

    A desire to mitigate the worst effects of climate change. There's a longer origin story, however, the reason we focused on scaleable solutions for revegetation is that trees and revegetation are the most effective method we have to sequester carbon. The Nature Conservancy published its strategy that we can achieve ⅓ of the global emissions reductions called for in The Paris Agreement with 'Natural Climate Solutions' which are replanting trees, rangelands, and fire response and restoration.

    However, we don't have a scalable method to plant and restore. The most sophisticated planting company in the world uses people with shovels because terrain and stumps make tractors useless in most places. DroneSeed is building a better system. We need a better system because we have a scale issue. The UN's Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) estimates that 300M acres (129M hectares) have been deforested since the 1990s. By our estimates, the largest forestry company in the world, which is five times larger than its next biggest competitor by acreage, plants around 1M acres a year (400-700M trees). Given current technology — people and shovels — at that rate it would take us 300 years to replant our deficit. That's if you could find the people. That's a challenge everywhere in the world because the work is so hard on the body. Treeplanters burn the caloric equivalent of running two marathons every day. They're superheroes. Yet, we don't have 300 years and that� ��s an incredibly inefficient and physically unsustainable way to plant trees. We're building a solution to allow people to plant more, faster.

    Why Climate Change versus any of the other humanity threatening problems out there?

    My worldview is that climate change is the problem that all other problems report to. If we fail to mitigate climate change, there is no time left on the clock to work on any other problem. If climatic change is allowed to go to the worst extremes possible with inaction, no social, economic, or political system is going to fare well/survive. Historical precedents of what our future might be like include the Great Famine in China 1959-61 and the Dustbowl in the 1930s in the US. Or you can look to Hollywood to help wrap your head around what the future might look like — Mad Max is a super fun movie, but it doesn't look fun to live in. Our mission at DroneSeed is to 'Make Reforestation Scaleable.' This mission and the opportunity to use technology to make a dent in an incredibly big problem is what I attribute to incredibly top notch talent joining our team.

    How do you ensure success with a drone?

    Listen first. We sought out, asked questions, and listened to wise old nursery managers and foresters. They are our favorites and have a ton of knowledge gained through decades of tree herding. We have been working with three of the five largest timber companies in the US for over three years and are now also working with the world's largest land conservation organization. Before we built anything, they asked hard pragmatic questions of us, saved us years of development time with their insights, and today, continue to push us to be better and serve their needs more effectively.

    As an example, in 2015, when we first started, we explained what we were planning. Our advisors were quick to point out that simply dropping seeds and seedlings from the sky had been tried in the 1970s. A drone doesn't change that. When we started talking about using software to target and deploy seeds to 'micro-sites' our advisors finally thought we were on to something useful that advanced the science and practice. Micro-siting is planting a tree in a super localized spot where it will grow well. "Near a stump" is one example of a microsite. The stump provides shelter from sun and wind which keeps more moisture in the soil and the decaying old roots make it easy for new roots to penetrate. In 2016, our foresters and customers suggested we figure out how to control competitive vegetation by spraying. Like a garden, mitigating weeds is the number one way to boost seed survival. We wrote the software to do that in a very targeted way and are ever improving it. Lastly, we had a number of ideas about seed vessels. They gave us feedback as we developed four seed vessels for different eco-systems. Think of seed vessels as bringing the micro-site to the field. This is incredibly important to boosting survival rates as more and more post-burn sites have burned so hot and severely that the topsoil and seeds in it were torched. There's no soil left to plant in and no seeds to naturally re-establish. In California, 80% of wildfires now burn this severely which hasn't been the norm.

    If we put all the pieces together, micro-siting software, targeted vegetation control, and seed vessels, we have a better response to boost survival rates of our plantings, and a better response for the incredibly massive scale of wildfires.

    Traditionally manual planting has been most effective when replanting an area with seedlings (1-2 yr old trees grown in a nursery). Why use seeds?

    Seedlings are great if tree harvests are planned and it's known how many seedlings will be needed in two years. But fires aren't predictable! There's a two-year wait for nurseries to grow seedlings. It's generally assumed you can 'just order more trees' but that's not the case. There aren't enough orchards and nurseries for the scale, and even if they were, they couldn't survive the huge swings in demand. Its a large-scale supply chain problem that's fascinating.

    Here's the math (and more):

    7M acres burn each year in the US (ten-year rolling average). That's 7 times what we estimate the largest timber company in the world plants per year. (Side note: the ten-year rolling average is up from 2.7M burned acres in 1992 which is scary as all f***). Now, it's a ten-year average of 7M, so consider the swings in supply chain and implications for nurseries: some years we need 5M acres of seedlings, and in some years like 2017, we need 10M acres from nurseries. Wowzer. Nurseries in the supply chain just can't take that risk and stay in business. At 200-500 trees per acre, we're talking about 2.5 billion trees that may or may not be needed. Because the trees are small but growing fast, we can't just hold them for a year as billions of 6-inch trees packed together will become billions of one to two foot tall trees which will kill each other as they compete for light and nutrients.

    Can the government take this market risk and grow these seedlings for the public good? It could if it could bear the public wrath of throwing out 2.5Bn trees in some years. It also needs to fund this. Neither of these is likely as the US Forest Service is increasingly spending over 50% of its budget fighting fires. Seedlings can't scale to this problem. We've got to use seeds.

    So we use seeds and there are no more issues? Seeds are a limited resource as well. They have to be collected from the wild or cultivated in seed orchards (which take decades to grow).

    Unfortunately, while you can just dump seeds everywhere by helicopter, the survival rate of 3-7% for many species means that there just aren't enough seeds to scale to 7M acres because 93%-97% of the seeds are wasted.

    How do we solve this problem then?!?! We have to boost survival rates and better use seeds so we can scale to 7M acres a year, and greater internationally. DroneSeed is doing that with seed vessels, where the seed is packaged and delivered into the ground with things like fertilizer and natural pest deterrents, so that we can spread the same quantity of seeds across more acres as we achieve better survival.

    We've pioneered four vessels so far and we're tailoring them to different eco-systems. We want to nix a feedback loop where insufficient seed/seedlings is resulting in a huge backlog of unplanted and unrestored areas. Forests aren't naturally re-establishing due to fire severity and nature hates a vacuum, so invasives move in. This further reduces carbon sequestration and the invasives are more likely to burn, both of which accelerates climate change and increases fires and fire severity. Uggh. That's a pretty nasty feedback loop.

    We're incredibly impressed with the foresters and contractors that have been trying to keep the problem in check with the tools and seed/seedlings they have. We want to give them better tools and higher survival rates. We're listening to what their pain points are, their feedback, and making the most of their experience and suggestions. After every project DroneSeed does, we're gaining more data to make improvements to the micro-siting software, the vessels themselves, and the aerial deployment. Wish us luck!

    You buy off-the-shelf drones and then modify them to your needs. What kinds of modifications do you make and how extensive are they?

    The modifications we make are so extensive, we wonder why we don't make the drones ourselves. The fuselage is all that remains original (the carbon fiber or molded body) after our brilliant team has optimized it for our needs. However, we don't want to be a drone manufacturer as they'll become a commodity. Instead, we've built the technology to provide a pay-per-acre service. To best perform that service, we continually integrate the rapidly evolving innovations in hardware across the field to work with our intellectual property: proprietary software, seed vessels, and the aerial deployment mechanisms for our seed vessels.

    The drones are automated and use machine learning models in the replanting process. Can you explain how specifically they are using machine learning and how does it impact the process?

    The first step in our process is to go out and survey with LiDAR and multispectral cameras to create a 3D model of the terrain and obstacles to plan the many flights of our drone swarms.

    The survey identifies the microsites where the trees will grow well and rule out gravel fields, rivers, mature forests etc. Zoom in and we can identify stumps, which we've already discussed, which are great to plant seeds next to. Zoom in further and we can use the near-infrared (NIR) to identify if the ground is covered in soil, wood chips, or several feet of branches called 'slash'.  so we can plant on the soil. Today, this is what we pay tree planters to do: be the intelligence that goes into the field and puts the shovel in soil next to the stump. The problem is the best treeplanters can only plant 2 acres a day (800-1000 trees).

    Understanding what we're looking for (gravel, stumps, NIR spots), we then employ 'supervised classification,' which is annotation by experts and validation by subsequent surveys, to determine the optimal planting routes and micro-sites in distinct areas. I would rather not go into the exact techniques we use currently, though they would be familiar to anyone versed in machine learning or spatial quantitative methods, but no one else (as far as we are aware) is collecting the data necessary to create an effective model for planting in forest and rangeland environments.

    DroneSeed is currently the first and only company in the US that is FAA approved for heavy lift UAS operations with multiple drones simultaneously – congratulations! What was the process like to get this approval and how will it impact your success?

    We honestly would have expected any number of corporations in aerospace or backing drone package delivery to have applied for and received this approval first. However, we're leading this space and it tremendously affects the unit economics of our operations, so we couldn't wait.

    The approval allows us to operate aircraft up to 115 lbs in swarms of five. This gives us 57lbs of payload per drone. More payload means we can service more acreage in a single day. Previously we were limited by regulations to 16lbs of payload. This meant a lot more flights per acre even though our aircraft weren't even remotely close to their maximum flight time. The increased weight approval allowed us to demonstrate to ourselves and investors how we would make money each day we went out to service acres — the unit economics. That's a major milestone for a startup.

    How do you determine what a burned area needs? Are there some areas that cannot be helped?

    Everywhere can be helped, but it's a survival rate probability game affected by the eco-system and burn severity that affects cost. We have a few principles that guide us:

  • Ask the landowner the objectives. This is Forestry 101. Do they want a polyculture of many species for habitat (many diverse species of trees)? Do they want to harvest timber on a super long schedule of 80 years to fund acquisition of more conservation land? Do they want a commercial rotation of 25-40 years? (Side note: seeds significantly cut the supply-chain costs of polycultures)
  • One-size doesn't fit all.  Different ecosystems require different vessels. We've developed four seed vessels for different forest and rangeland ecosystems with different benefits for arid versus wet climates. We also have different reproduction strategies for rare native species (for which there is low seed supply) versus commercially native species (where seed supply is better).
  • How many areas have you already replanted and where?

    Our first planting project was in October 2018, replanting after the Grave Creek Fire which burned 7,000 acres near Medford, Oregon in 2018.

    Over the last two years, we've worked with 3 of the 5 largest timber companies in the US spraying to protect trees. Scaleable methods to control competitive vegetation (spray) are vital to seed survival rate, so we spent considerable time figuring out how to do this with drones. We're very excited about reducing costs for our customers with targeted spraying. We do this by using aircraft and software that enables us to spray just the 3-5 acres of Scotch Broom or Himalayan Blackberries in a 100-acre unit. As herbicides are a major cost center for all our customers they are also quite excited about methods to reduce their use. We keep getting invited to renew contracts and signing new ones, so that's one indicator that we're doing good work.

    Have you seen any fruit from your labor, so-to-speak?

    We'll see results from our 2018 planting project after the snow melts! We'll see the effects this spring of the 8 projects we did in 2018 spraying to protect trees.

    You've raised nearly $5M in venture capital (VC) investment from Social Capital and Spero Ventures. Forestry isn't a typical VC investment space, why for-profit versus not-for-profit?

    Spot on. Forestry is not what we typically think of when we think about "software eating the world." Our investors pattern us after SailDrone, Aclima, and UrbanFootprint. Each have large US government customers and each are working on incredibly valuable problems. These are major pain points for the customer which is trying to do more work with the same budget. An example is SailDrone acquiring oceanic data on acidification and other matters for a fraction of the cost of manned expeditions on boats, and their aquatic drones acquire the data without risk to people for years on end, which wasn't possible or safe with manned crews.  So far, three of the four of these companies have gone on to raise large much much larger rounds. The thesis is that a lot of the low hanging fruit in pure play software companies has been taken and that the next big companies (and IPOs) will come from companies that interact physically with the real world and in regulated markets. Think AirBnB, 23 andMe, Lyft/Uber, Bird Scooters/Lime etc.

    DroneSeed's in that space and we're expanding our offerings beyond the private sector to government entities such as the US Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, and state agencies. In the immediate, our problem is a valuable one to solve for these agencies: how do we use technology to restore landscapes devastated by wildfires completely, rapidly, and at scale. Manned crews like this which are the current solution aren't scaleable. Longer term, the problem is growing and becoming even more valuable to solve: We ask ourselves, what would we pay to avoid another dustbowl? What price would we pay to avoid a fishery industry collapse caused by the bleaching of coral reefs and fish spawning areas? Another Great Famine as China experienced between 1959 and 1961 which likely killed as many as all casualties of WWI? The answer should be we'd pay a LOT of money to avoid this. The science is showing in many scenarios we'll be impacted within the next twenty years, aka within the lifespan of our student debt and mortgages.

    This is where the VC model does fit. We need incredibly explosive growth of a technology to scale incredibly rapidly to mitigate a problem (climate change). That's VC. Successful results will be incredibly valuable for society and the company. That's VC. However, before anything can happen, large investments of capital are needed from investors with a vision to see what society will need/want before they know they want it. (Think if you really felt you needed an iPhone, or Google Search/Maps/Mail in 1990?). That's VC. We're already seeing public opinion shift on climate change as it did on marijuana legalization. Even Exxon believes we should participate in the Paris Climate Accords (1)(2). Right wing conservative groups featuring Trent Lott (Former Senate Republican Leader from Mississippi) and Janet Yellen (former Chairman of the Fed) advanced plans for a Carbon Dividend this year. These are indicators that in the US we're starting to feel we need solutions. Lastly, on e unspoken rule of VC investing: companies making a ton of money rapidly will immediately inspire many many many clones. From an environmental perspective, how awesome would it be to have ten companies competing with DroneSeed for contracts to reforest the planet? We're happy to have a head start.

    What do you see for the next few years of DroneSeed's future? Expansion plans?

    If we're really going to fulfill the mission to 'make reforestation scaleable' by providing a tool to mitigate the worst effects of climate change, we've got to get beyond just the US. That means expanding to other countries. I've lived 10 years abroad and strongly believe that locals are always more efficient in their home countries than expats. So we'll put the technology into the hands of locals while setting up either joint ventures, licensing, or royalty structures. We've been looking at Canada after the Fort McMurray Fire and already have a Special Flight Operations Certificate from their regulatory agency. We're also looking at New Zealand where the billion tree program has allocated $245 Million NZD to fund tree planting projects. To enter New Zealand, we'll need local Kiwis, government agencies, and philanthropic foundations to identify land for planting projects and contact us. We'll help Te Uru Rākau, New Zealand's Forestry Agency, get the technol ogy into the hands of locals. Our technology will reduce the caloric cost to the field crews so the work is physically sustainable year after year.

    More generally, there are five countries that have ⅔ of the world's forests: The US, Canada, Brazil, China, and Russia. Additionally, in arid eco-systems, there are the rangelands projects, which sequester a ton of carbon underground in their roots. Between those two market sectors, there's nothing but opportunity for DroneSeed to connect with partners and make serious headway on sequestering carbon.

      

     

    Tags: drones, DroneSeed, Reforestation, The Nature Conservancy, trees

    About the Author

    Erika Clugston Erika is a writer and artist based in Berlin. She is passionate about sharing stories of climate change and cleantech initiatives worldwide. Whether it's transforming the fashion, food, or engineering industries, there's an opportunity and responsibility for us all to do better. In addition to contributing to CleanTechnica, Erika is the Web and Social Media Editor at LOLA Magazine and writes regularly about art and culture.

    sábado, 9 de fevereiro de 2019

    How to choose the best potting soil for the job

    If you want to have success growing different types of plants, use the proper potting soil.

    If you want to have success growing different types of plants, use the proper potting soil.

    Q uestion: I keep reading that I'm supposed to be using a special potting soil to start my seeds that's different from the kind of potting soil I'm supposed to use to fill my patio containers. What's the difference between different potting soils and how do I know which one I should use?

    Answer: Potting soil, also called potting mix, actually contains no real soil. Instead, it's a soilless blend of ingredients that's used to grow plants. Often containing a combination of peat moss, coir fiber, vermiculite, sand, perlite, pine bark, compost and other ingredients, there are dozens of brands of commercial plant potting mix on the market. The combination and ratio of each of the various ingredients is what determines both the quality and the type of potting soil.

    All good-quality potting mixes should be easy-to-handle, well-draining and light-weight, but you'll find that each brand has its own distinct features. There's wide variation in the texture, nutritional content, water holding capacity and density of each different potting mix. This can make it difficult to know which brand is right for your needs.

    When deciding which type of potting soil is best for the job, you have to start with the particular thing you're going to be using it for.

    Most commercial potting soils are formulated with a specific purpose in mind and the ratio of ingredients is determined to be the best way to accomplish that purpose.

    If a potting mix was created specifically for seed-starting, for example, it will have a lighter weight and finer texture than potting soils intended for potting trees or shrubs. It's also likely have a large percentage of sphagnum peat moss in the blend, because peat has natural fungicidal properties that help prevent damping off, a fungal disease that strikes young seedlings.

    Seed-starting potting soil will not be too heavy for young seedlings to emerge through it, nor will it have large chunks of bark or other materials in it. And, seed-starting potting soil also has minimal fertilizer amounts in it, if it has any at all. This is because all the nutrition a new seedling needs is found in its endosperm, the fleshy material that's inside the seed. Much like the yolk of an egg, the endosperm is a source of nutrition for the young seedling until it's several weeks old. Having too much fertilizer in a seed-starting potting soil could cause fertilizer burn on tender young seedlings and seedling roots.

    In contrast, a potting soil created for growing containerized trees and shrubs contains ingredients such as coarse sand, pine bark, and/or compost to add weight and make the texture coarser. It also often has higher amounts of fertilizer in it.

    Potting mixes blended for succulents and cactus have a gravelly texture that drains quickly, a necessary trait for these plants that have evolved to thrive in well-draining, sandy desert soils. Orchid blends for repotting orchid plants consist mostly of bark chips since most orchids are epiphytes that grow in trees. There are commercial potting mixes formulated for just about any type of plant you can grow, from African violets and houseplants to shrubs and vegetable transplants.

    But in addition to all of these specialized blends, there are also plenty of general, all-purpose potting mixes that are suitable for everything from container gardens to hanging baskets.

    Start by considering what you'll be growing and then choose your potting mix accordingly.

    Horticulturist Jessica Walliser co-hosts "The Organic Gardeners" at 7 a.m. Sundays on KDKA Radio with Doug Oster. She is the author of several gardening books, including "Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden," "Good Bug, Bad Bug," and her newest title, "Container Gardening Complete." Her website is jessicawalliser.com. Send your gardening or landscaping questions to tribliving@tribweb.com or The Good Earth, 622 Cabin Hill Drive, Greensburg, PA 15601.

    sexta-feira, 8 de fevereiro de 2019

    Gardening tips: how to grow taller, healthier trees fast

    January 12 2019, 12:01am, The Times

    From staking your new plant to preparing the soil

    You've bought your plant, maybe a birch, a magnolia, or a big shrubby Japanese maple, and you want to plant it in the lawn. Fine. But how do you make sure it really takes off? How do you make sure it doesn't just jog along while you get older watching it? There are ways.

    1 Prepare the planting holeIt will need a well-prepared planting hole of two spades' depth, with lots of garden compost worked into the bottom layer. However, if the site tends to be prone to waterlogging, plant your tree on a 20cm-high mound of soil a metre across, so that the vital junction of root and shoot is above the general soil level. The tree should look as if it's planted…

    Want to read more?

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    quarta-feira, 6 de fevereiro de 2019

    How to prune an umbrella plant and repot a cast-iron plant

    DEAR JESSICA: My wife has a green thumb without even trying. People always give her dying plants, and she brings them back. We have one (I don't know what it is) that we'd like to trim back as it's over 6 feet tall. Can it be trimmed? If so, where and when should we cut it? — Henry Ashby, Riverhead

    DEAR HENRY: You have a Schefflera, often referred to as an umbrella plant, and by the looks of it, I'd say your assessment of your wife's green thumb is correct. The plants are native to the tropics, but here in Zone 7, they are often grown as houseplants. Indoor-grown umbrella plants should get plenty of indirect sunlight, such as by an east-, west- or south-facing window that's covered with a sheer curtain. Overwatering can prove fatal, so soil should be allowed to dry completely before slowly and completely soaking soil until water runs out the pot's drainage holes (saucers should be emptied afterward to avoid absorption of excess water).

    Outdoors in their natural habitat, Schefflera trees can grow 40 feet tall; indoors they usually max out at about 8 feet and don't require pruning to thrive. However, if you'd like to control its shape or size, this can be safely and easily done. Using sharp pruners, start by removing any unhealthy or leggy stems, cutting them to approximately three inches from the soil line. Then, to control the plant's overall height and width, trim tall stalks to the desired length, cutting each about an inch above the next leaf.

    DEAR JESSICA: I have a black thumb; every plant I touch dies. But I have a plant that I received from a friend at my mother's funeral in 2017, so it's very important to me. Through trial and error, and some research, I've been able to keep it alive. Now I want to put into a nice pot. How do I do it without killing it? Please help. — Desiree Dinkins, Deer Park

    DEAR DESIREE: Your plant, Aspidistra elatior, is commonly called a cast-iron plant. Its name derives from the amount of neglect and (sometimes abuse) it can withstand. It doesn't even like, much less need, sunlight. Varieties include those with waxy, glossy green, yellow-speckled or cream-striped leaves, but the green ones, such as yours, are the most vigorous. Water only when dry and fertilize with ordinary houseplant fertilizer twice a month in summer and fall, plus once over winter, and they will thrive.

    Young plants, which tend to grow quickly, can be repotted, but no more than once a year. Larger, mature plants can be repotted every three years. Regardless, move them up only into the next-size container, typically one or two inches larger. Any bigger, and the extra soil will retain more water than the plant needs, placing it at risk of root rot, which is fatal.

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    Slip the plant out of its pot by tilting it on its side (or upside-down,) using your hand to guide it gently out without tugging on its leaves.

    Pour a couple inches of potting mix into the bottom of the new pot, and place the plant atop it. Add potting mix around the plant, patting it firmly with your fingers to remove air pockets as you go. Adjust the plant's positioning, removing it and adding more soil (or removing some) from under the plant, if necessary, to ensure the top of its root ball lands about an inch from the top of the pot and at the same depth as it had been in the previous pot. Place the pot in the sink and fill with a gentle stream of water until water runs out of the drainage holes. Let it sit there until water no longer drains, empty the saucer of any water, return the plant to its growing spot — and Bob's your uncle, as they say.

    DEAR READERS: Last month I wrote about Rosemarie DeFalco's ailing tree, which was oozing sap from an old wound, and provided advice for bolstering its health. Eagle-eyed readers Ed Martello of East Northport and Tony DeMayo of Massapequa Park wrote me to point out they believed the photo of DeFalco's tree, which appeared in the column, clearly depicted a weeping cherry, not a Japanese maple, as the reader's question stated. DeFalco, who has both a weeping cherry and a Japanese maple growing on her property, confirmed that she inadvertently conflated the two in her email. As for me, I was homed in on the trunk canker, and the type of tree escaped my notice. My advice remains the same, however, regardless of the tree's species. Great catch!

    3 ways to turn your winter blues green

    Feb. 17: Camellia Festival at Planting Fields (1395 Planting Fields Rd, Oyster Bay)

    Behold 150-plus camellia trees in full bloom and enjoy live music, a watercolor workshop for children and walking tours from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is free, but there's a $10 fee to enter Coe Hall, where a children's tea party and magic show will take place. For information: plantingfields.org or 516-922-8600.

    Monthly through December: Sundays in the Garden, Distinguished Speaker Series at Clark Botanic Garden (193 I. U. Willets Rd, Albertson)

    Use the offseason to improve your game and learn directly from a dozen local horticultural experts — one per month all year long — who will cover a range of topics tailored for Long Island gardeners. All session begin at 1 p.m.; $12 per session ($10 for members). See a list of sessions and register at clarkbotanic.org or by calling 516-484-8603. 

    April 13: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County's Spring Gardening School (Riverhead Middle School, 600 Harrison Ave., Riverhead)

    Spend the day with CCE master gardeners and local horticultural experts and get instruction, tips and advice to kick off the new season. There will be a plant sale, door prizes, educational exhibits, soil testing and a plant clinic, plus classroom workshops to help you raise your gardening to the next level. Registration and tuition payment ($70; $65 for registering before March 1) must be made in advance and includes four workshops, continental breakfast, boxed lunch, afternoon refreshments, giveaways and more. The event runs from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Register at ccesuffolk.org (call 631-591-2314 for instructions on how to bring soil samples and plant specimens).

    By Jessica Damiano @jessicadamiano

    Jessica Damiano is Newsday.com's lifestyle & entertainment deputy editor and pens the Garden Detective column. Outside work, she weeds and saves her lawn from her dogs.

    Sonoma County Garden Doctors: How to plant a bare root tree

    Tom G. of Santa Rosa asks: I would like to purchase a few bare root fruit trees and could use some guidance in planting them correctly.

    All fruit trees should be planted where they will get sun for at least six hours or more a day, have well-draining soil, and receive adequate water. Fruit trees can be planted at any time of the year, but when purchased bare root during the winter, they should be planted soon after you purchase them.

    If they cannot be planted quickly they can be temporarily "heeled in," where you cover the roots with compost, sawdust, shavings, soil, etc. Make sure to keep the roots moist until you can plant them.

    If your soil is heavy and/or compacted, dig the planting area a couple of feet wider than the width of the root system, and not much deeper than the longest of the roots, as roots will not grow through densely compacted soil.

    Toss a few shovelfuls of well-decomposed compost on top of the soil before digging the hole. Dig the planting hole at least twice as wide as the spread of the tree's roots, but no deeper than the depth of the root ball.

    In many gardens, there might be the presence of an impervious layer of "hardpan" or "claypan" found within one to two feet of the surface. You need to break through this hard layer to allow for drainage and root growth. You might need to break through this hardpan with a pickax or jackhammer (available at equipment rental outlets).

    If this is not possible and there's no way to get through it, then you will need to find another spot for the tree or build a raised bed one to two feet high and fill it with a good-quality soil.

    Before you do anything, examine the roots of the bare-root trees and prune off any roots that are broken or kinked. Place the tree in the hole with the graft union above the soil surface. Orient the weaker side of the graft northeast to reduce the likelihood of sunburn.

    Start filling the hole with the same soil that you dug out, making sure the soil gets underneath the roots to eliminate air pockets. When properly planted, the soil line on the trunk of the tree should be about 1 to 2 inches above the level of the existing soil line.

    As a general rule, once the soil has settled, the largest roots should be just below the soil surface. The soil should slope away from the tree to prevent standing water near or on the trunk.

    Water the tree thoroughly to settle the soil around the root ball. A layer of mulch 3 to 6 inches deep, such as compost and wood chips, will help control weeds and conserve moisture.

    Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent crown rot and hiding places for insect pests.

    Protect the bark of the tree from sunburn and borer insects. For this purpose, mix equal amounts of white water-based paint and water.

    Paint the mixture from the soil surface up, all around the trunk to the first branches. They shouldn't need painting again.

    It is important to prune young trees so they can begin to develop into a tree with the correct structure.

    segunda-feira, 4 de fevereiro de 2019

    How to Grow an Avocado Tree From a Pit

    Avocados make everything taste better: eggs, sandwiches, salads, even desserts (well, according to some people). But as they can cost more than $2 a pop, it's tempting to start growing these nutrient-packed, heart-healthy fruits — and yes, they're fruits! — yourself.

    First, the good news: Growing an avocado tree indoors is as simple as saving a leftover pit and gathering up a few common supplies. It's an easy foray into gardening and pretty much the perfect low-cost science experiment to try with kids.

    Now, the not-so-great news: It can take anywhere from five to 13 years for avocado trees to start producing fruit (DARN, we know) and they rarely do so indoors. Now you know why those grocery store avos cost so much!

    Alas, here's how to grow your own avocado tree from a pit in five simple steps:

    What You'll Need How to Grow an Avocado Tree

    1. Save an avocado pit (without cutting or breaking it) and wash off any residue. Let dry, then insert 3-4 toothpicks about halfway up the side of the pit.

    2. Suspend the pit broad end down in a drinking glass or jar. Fill the container with enough water to submerge the bottom third of the seed, the Missouri Botanical Garden advises.

    3. Place the glass in a warm spot out of direct sunlight and change the water regularly. Roots and a sprout should appear in about 2-6 weeks. If not, start with another seed.

    4. When the sprout gets about 6 inches tall, cut it back to about 3 inches to encourage more root growth.

    5. Once the stem grows out again, plant the pit in an 10-inch pot filled with rich potting soil. Now it's time to let your avocado tree grow, grow, grow!

    Note: You can buy older trees instead of starting from scratch. Amazon sells grafted, 4-feet tall avocado trees that may yield fruit in 3-4 years instead of 10.

    How to Care for an Avocado Tree

    Place the pot in a sunny spot and water lightly but often. The goal is to keep the soil moist but not sopping wet, California Avocados recommends. You can place the tree outdoors in the summer as long as temps stay above 45°F. Occasionally prune your plant (every 6 inches or so) to encourage fullness.

    TIP: Yellow leaves signal you're overwatering. Dial back to avoid root rot.

    You can also plant avocado trees outside in USDA Zones 10-12, a.k.a., regions with no frost. They do best in rich, well-drained soil with full sun. Water 2-3 times per week by soaking the soil thoroughly and then letting it dry out before watering again.

    What to Make With Avocados

    Although your tree won't produce fruit anytime soon, round out your green-thumb project with some avo-themed dishes from the Good Housekeeping Test Kitchen. First up: Our go-to classic guacamole recipe, with just the right amount of lime and jalapeño.

    Don't miss these other favorites that make avocado the star of the show:

     

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